Sunday, July 27, 2014

Postcards from Alaska - Rebuilding a Whale

One of our SCA writers has been very busy at her current home up in Glacier Bay National Park. Without going into the things she's been doing on and off work (that's for her next entry), we wanted to showcase the project she's been involved in: Rebuilding "Snow", a humpback whale that died in 2001. You can find the details on Glacier Bay NPS's website, along with a brief editorial on the Student Conservation Association's website.

~CBD


Sunday, July 6, 2014

A Rookie’s Perspective: Why don’t you love this?!

Editor's note: Alexa is a first-time NPS intern at Devil's Tower National Monument. We hope to have her chronicle her first season as a parallel to the "Postcards from Alaska" series. Her author bio is available at our Contributors page.



As the third full week of my internship comes to a close and my life feels less like a vacation, I’m still struggling to understand the tourist mentality.

“Let’s hit as many of these national parks in a single day as we can! If we leave Yellowstone by 8 a.m., we can hit Devil's Tower and Badlands before the closing ceremony at Rushmore!”

What? Why? Why won’t you stay for sunset? Why not just camp here tonight, watch the sunrise, and then go to Mount Rushmore? Hell, spend a few days here!


Every day, I see families, groups, couples, lone travelers stop for an hour or two to look at the tower before speeding off down the twisting exit road to the interstate.  Park.  Snap a photo.  Walk up to the base.  Retreat.  Leave.  Like clockwork.   How can you love this place if you’re only here for seconds?  How am I supposed to help you understand this place if you can’t even experience these beautiful Wyoming nights?  How will you ever appreciate this place (“in your own way”) if you don’t even know what a full day here feels like?  How will you ever know what the other side of the tower looks like?!

I try so, so hard to encourage people to stay longer. “You know, we have a really cool evening program tonight at the amphitheater.  It’s the perfect vantage point for the sunset!”

“Sorry, we’re trying to get to Rushmore by sunset.”

“Sorry, we’ve got a full day of traveling to Yellowstone ahead of us.”

“Sorry, we can’t.”


During my walks and programs and informal talks with visitors, I try my best to “give them the information so they can learn to appreciate this place in their own way.”  I try to talk about whatever they're interested in so they, too, can see how amazing this place is.  I try to show them all the cool, secret rock ledges to sit on.  I try.  But still, somehow, I encounter those who just can’t enjoy themselves here.

Normally, I would think that’s okay.  The geographer in me knows that everyone will appreciate places in their own way – positive or not.  But I just can’t help but blame the person spewing those horrible accusations (especially after I’ve shown them the cool rock ledges).

You’re never going to love this place if you’re only here for an hour, mid-day.  I know you just want to talk about the tower right in front of you, but turn around!  Look at the view! Look at the plains and the Black Hills!  If you don’t love it, I’m keeping these rock ledges for myself.

Before this internship began, I thought I’d be sharing cool stories with curious visitors.  I thought I would be talking about geology to people who are truly interested in learning.  I thought I would be encouraging people to step off the nicely-paved tower trail to go explore the red beds or Joyner ridge or one of the many wilderness areas that speckle my map with green.  It’s not that I don’t try; I do.  Maybe it’s because I’m at a smaller park/pit stop for those going between Mount Rushmore and Yellowstone.  Maybe it’s because these people have schedules to keep up with or itineraries to follow.  Maybe I just don’t share enough of my enthusiasm (I think if I try to share any more enthusiasm I will be numb).


I guess it just takes patience and practice to make it through the day listening to people rush rush rush when the land is telling you to relax and stay for a while. Or maybe it’s just me, no one else seems as bothered by it. Whatever the case may be, I have an incredible amount of respect for park rangers now after seeing the amount of people they have to interact with on a daily basis, especially those who insult our park.

Sunday, June 15, 2014

A Rookie’s Perspective: My Life is Still a Vacation

Editor's note: This is Alexa's first post. She is a first-time NPS intern at Devil's Tower National Monument. We hope to have her chronicle her first season as a parallel to the "Postcards from Alaska" series. Her author bio is available at our Contributors page.


...so one day my mother sat me down and explained that I couldn't become an explorer because everything in the world had already been discovered. I'd been born in the wrong century, and I felt cheated.”  – Ransom Riggs, Miss Peregrine’s Home for Peculiar Children


I’ve always been an explorer, whether or not I use the term formally.  One year ago, I sat in an environmental history class with a professor and former National Park Ranger who thoughtfully and enthusiastically shared her knowledge of, in part, the history of the National Park Service.  Her enthusiasm matched my interest, and I am now interning at America’s first national monument.

Just a week ago, I arrived in Wyoming after a long, miserable trip from upstate New York.  My roommate picked me up at a small county airport about an hour away from Devils Tower National Monument.  I was exhausted and it was the middle of the night, but I still managed to gasp when I saw the shadow of the tower against the purple-y night sky.  My roommate probably thought my excitement was a little ridiculous, but I couldn’t hide how cool I thought the view was.

I still think the tower at night is better than in the daytime.  During the day, you see what you expect.  It looks just like what you see in the pictures (actually, it’s much better, but the details are the same).  But, when you visit the tower at night, you just see this mass of darkness against the best view of the Milky Way ever.  It’s something you can’t photograph and expect to be the same.

The best part of it all is that you can see the tower at night.   Not just the rangers.  Not just the raccoons that freak me out.  Not just me.  Anyone can see it or any national park because it’s not just my tower or the state of Wyoming’s tower. It’s public land.  I am still getting over the fact that we can all be here whenever we want because it is all ours.

--

I’ve only been here a week, so I kind of am still in vacation mode.  Every morning while I’m opening the Visitor Center, I see the tourists sleepily emerge from their warm cars and gasp at the height of the tower.  If I didn’t walk to work, I would be doing the exact same thing.  I just can’t believe that something so amazing can actually exist.  When I take the trail home from work, I can’t believe the red rocks and winding river are actually there.  The only thing tethering me down to the real world is the massive amount of paperwork I’ve had to do this week.

Which leads me to the actual work part of this: there is a lot of it.  I intern 8-hour days like a real adult and have lots of paperwork.  I have to cook my own food (help, mom and dad!).  I give (and plan) tower walks and short talks and evening programs just like the Rangers. I work in the Visitor Center. I rove the trails. But, still, it doesn’t feel like any job I’m used to.  It may be because it’s the first week, or it may be because I’m in one of America’s amazing parks and monuments.

Whatever the case, I could never have imagined this is what I would be doing for the summer.  I never want to stop exploring the boulder field and the red beds and the prairie grass fields.  I never want to stop the alertness I have while hiking to watch for rattle snakes.  I never want to stop telling people about the geology and history and culture of the Black Hills and the high plains.  It may be the new job high, but I feel like I’m on a vacation, and I never want it to end.

-Alexa.

Sunday, May 18, 2014

More than rangers - Organization and job diversity in the modern Park Service.


Not everyone has the advantage of growing up as a park brat, but that doesn't mean that a life in the Park Service is out of reach. We talk with people all the time who are convinced that it's their dream job, but there's just no way that they could do it. They don't think they could compete, they don't think they could relocate, and most of all they don't think their skills are applicable to the service.

The reality is that the NPS is a complex organization, with thousands of different jobs and duties. The Rangers that visitors see are the public face of the Park Service, but for ever Ranger you see there are 5-10 support staff working to ensure that everything goes smoothly in the background.

Many of the contributors to this blog are members of the support staff. We operate in jobs that the public is never going to see, doing things that people don't associate with the National Parks. We don't wear uniforms, or give programs to teach people about the parks, but we bleed green and grey just the same. Our talents aren't suited to interacting with visitors day after day, but we still work hard to ensure that the parks remain safe, functional, and preserved for future generations to enjoy.

If you're interested in becoming part of the Park Service, but don't want to become a "Ranger", then it might help to have a brief overview of the organization of NPS.

NPS Employment within a park, monument, region, etc. breaks down into 5 main "Divisions", each with designated duties related to the Park Service mission.

Administration: The admin staff of parks handles things like payroll, budget, human resources, Information Technology, and purchasing. Other departments, such as Concessions and OPAC (office of planning and compliance), usually also end up as a subset of this division.

Facility Maintenance (also known as "Design and Engineering"): The maintenance staff works to cover everything from building and housing maintenance to trail construction and waste management. In most NPS locations this is actually the largest portion of the staff.

Science & Resource Management (also known as "Natural\Cultural Resources"): S&RM functions as the academic side of the Park Service. Staff who work for S&RM include Biologists, Botanists, Zoologists, Archaeologists, Paleontologists, Hydrologists, Geologists, and every other kind of "ologist" you could imagine. They work in tasks as varied of their specialties, with duties ranging from active research to historic preservation.  

Interpretation: These are the Rangers that people think of when they imagine the National Park Service. Flat hats with green and grey uniforms giving programs or guiding events in the park. Interpretation staff make up half of the "Ranger" title. They offer presentations and programs, provide visitor information, and cover all kinds of other work designed to help people learn about, and enjoy their National Parks.

Visitor and Resource Protection: V&RP includes the primary other "Ranger" type. Law Enforcement Rangers. This division also includes programs like Backcountry Management, Fee Collection, Wildland and Structural firefighting, Emergency Services, and campground staff.

Once upon a time in the Park Service a "Ranger" was expected to be everything for a park. The law enforcement, the scientist, the interpreter, and the maintenance staff. These days the requirements of each job have become compartmentalized, because you can't expect every employee to be a federally credentialed law enforcement officer while also having a degree in Botany and knowledge on how to work a bulldozer. Because of this the Park Service family is incredibly varied in skill set, and just because you can't track a deer through the woods or give a Ranger Program to a crowd doesn't mean that's not a place where your skills can be put to use.

So, if you think that you'd rather have a Bison for a neighbor than an apartment building, or you feel like you'd rather be paid in sunrises than cold hard cash, consider taking a look joining the NPS family. You'll kick yourself every time you see your paycheck, and you'll wonder why you signed up for 150-mile grocery runs, but every time you get to step out and enjoy the beauty around you you'll understand that it was the best bad decision you ever made.

~CBD




Thursday, May 8, 2014

Postcards from Alaska - Entry #1

Editor’s note: This is the start of a running series from a first time NPS employee chronicling her first Park Service job at Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve.

Jas here!
So, I made it to Glacier Bay Alaska. First things first, it is beautiful and I feel like one of the luckiest people in the world right now. Mountains, REAL Mountains! Not saying that the part of Georgia I come from is flat, but it isn't exactly mountainy either. I wouldn't call Stone Mountain a real mountain; it's more of a hill.

Anyways, where I am situated is pretty much a glacial plain sandwich. The plain being the meat between the majestic mountains and the open sea. Interestingly enough, I haven't seen any glaciers yet, but I'll work on that.

Bear Claw Mountain

Mountain valley road from the plane

The ocean from the plane

Different colors in the ocean water

Post office

The flight to Glacier Bay from Juneau was amazing. The water was so many different shades of blue and green that it was beyond fascinating. On the way over here I was so nervous about all the unknowns about coming to a place I had never been and the fact that I had never met any of the people I would be working for, and interning with, in person yet. Now that I have gotten a lot of it out of the way I realize it wasn't really that hard it was just a matter of facing everything head on and moving forward from there. I feel like a lot of things in the next 6 months are going to be like that. I'm really looking forward to it.

Everyone that I met has been super nice! I'm not so sure about the whole limited Internet thing yet. I met my partner Allisha, the other SCA intern, and she was really nice. We both bonded over complaining about the Internet but I'm sure we'll figure it out, there are several places we can go to get access.

The Fjord Flying service plane I took
The Fjord Flying service plane I took

So, what we are doing here for the Student Conservation Association right now is working with maintenance. I haven't been told very much, but I do know that for the first week most of what I'm going to be doing is training and paperwork. Our day starts at 7 AM and I'm really looking forward to it.

One of the first things I will be doing is a bear safety class, which I can only imagine has to do with not getting eaten, mauled, or whatever else bears do. From what I have learned in a the brief time I have been here is that you get to see them often. The lovely lady, Allison, that picked me up said she has seen them licking her red Vespa before!* On a related note, when I first met my roommate, he gave me a bottle of bear mace. I would have to say that is the best welcoming gift ever!

Bear Mace
Welcoming gift of bear mace

For all of you that are were concerned about mosquitoes, I am happy to say that it had been a dry year and that there won't be very many. Apparently, they don't have ticks in the park. Well, they have ticks but they are more like deer ticks and couldn't care less about humans. I was told, however, that as a trade off the park had lot of biting gnats and horseflies. To be honest, I haven't seen much wildlife yet. I saw some crows in the trees outside my apartment window and what I can only assume are puffins of sorts. Allison told me that I would probably run into some local porcupines sooner or later, as they have trails next to the roads. Since I have arrived in town I have learned quite a few terms. While I can't remember all of them right now, my favorite so far is Swamp Donkey, which is code for moose.**

I also heard from my roommate’s girlfriend that the whales were starting to come into the park. As a result, for the first time ever they were recorded singing around this time of year. Normally, they don't sing until the end of the season when they go back to Hawaii to mate. Another fun tidbit I learned about the whales around here today was that they only eat when they come up here and then when they leave they don't generally eat anything till they get back the next year. I couldn't imagine not eating for almost a year! I got to my new apartment and I have to say it's way nicer than the dorms that I had in college. The one I am in is a 4 person apartment with shared living space, two bathrooms, and separate rooms. We get free laundry, which is awesome and almost too good to be true.  It is fully furnished and even has a mini TV, which I am now convinced has a smaller screen than my laptop. On the flip side, my laptop can't play VHS or DVDs! My room looks out into a cove and the view is stunning I'm looking forward to looking out every day. I asked my roommate what time the sun went down and it isn't till 8:30 and it doesn't get actually dark till 10:30.*** Btw there is snow outside my apartment which isn't exactly exciting for most people but back in Georgia any snow is exciting.****

They even gave us two fridges, though I honestly don't think we will need considering that most of the food can only be bought at two very expensive stores in the town of Gustavus. I have decided that having stuff mailed to me is probably more efficient than buying stuff in town. The only thing with having stuff mailed to me is I haven't yet figured out how many days it takes for it to get here. The post office said three days and I can vouch and say nope that is not correct, I sent a package 3 days ago and it's still not here.

Until next time!
*Note to self: Do not wear red unless you want bear licks. **Note to self: Start compiling a list of random terms you learn at the park. ***Note to reader: I'm pretty sure I just felt an earthquake already, unless it was the fridge, who knows, I'll have to ask* *I asked- no one else felt it. I mean I could have sworn the ground was shaking. I may be going crazy though who knows! ****Note to reader: Except during Snowpocalypse because no one can drive and everyone thinks they are going to die unless they buy milk and bread.

Sunday, April 6, 2014

A River Runs Through It (Part 1)

The Colorado River.  One of the main elements that shaped the Grand Canyon.  Glorious, internationally known, and extremely cold.  Less than 10% of visitors to Grand Canyon National Park are estimated to have seen it up close (Durango Herald), and even fewer have traveled down it on the river.  It was my honor to participate in an NPS employee trip last summer.

Commercial paddle tour (photo: SaintLost)

Something that most people aren't aware of is how expensive it is to get on a commercial river trip of the Colorado.  Here's what I found in my brief research.  Motorized (shorter, full length of Colorado within Grand Canyon) trips run an average of $2,630/person, while paddle trips (usually twice as long in time) are an average of $3,870/person.  The people I saw on these trips seemed very happy, but I doubt I would pay that much to raft down the Colorado.

Commercial paddle tour (photo: SaintLost)

My trip was only the lower half, which seems to typically be about half the full length price on commercial trips.  So, I hiked in to Phantom Ranch, the first time I'd ever really been below the Rim, despite living here for numerous years prior.  While it was a difficult, it was definitely worth the effort.

The Colorado River, immediately off the Bright Angel Trail (photo: SaintLost)

I did run out of water before the end, however. That was the hardest part, but I was rewarded with lemonade at the ranger station!  The afternoon and evening just consisted of hoping the pain in my legs would go away and resting.  A surprising thing, that I'd only heard rumors about in the past, was that one of the Science division employees ran ice cream down from South Rim for us to have that night. She ran down the South Kaibab trail in about two hours, then ran straight back up after having some water! I should mention that this was at night, which is more perilous on the trail.


About to load the boats with our gear (photo: SaintLost)

The next morning, we all rose quite early (for me) and started hauling gear to the boats.  Shoving our things into water-tight bags, getting acquainted with the boats and the crew, and trying to figure out what was needed for the ride itself were among the things we did before shoving off.  Lo and behold, the pain in my legs had intensified (despite extensive stretching the night before), so that will be a recurring theme for at least this entry.

Traveling down the Colorado! (photo: SaintLost)

Starting off on the bigger boat (the S rig), we went through a few smallish rapids before stopping to do some vegetation preservation work.  This basically means that we all worked together to water some saplings that the Science & Resource Division was trying to grow on one of the "sandbars".  I don't have any pictures of it, but the task ended up being most efficiently accomplished via a train of people passing water buckets up the steep, sandy hill. The hard work was a rewarding feeling, and just standing around in the water meant that I wasn't stressing my already cramped up legs.

Employees hard at work (photo: SaintLost)

After this, we loaded back on the boats and proceeded downriver. We eventually stopped to look at a rowboat that was perched up on a rocky outcropping and a story was told, but I couldn't walk up to it, so I stood just offshore in the wonderful, ice cold river water.  One of the boatmen, a friend of mine, stayed down at the bottom with me and we did the normal "gossiping" about NPS Divisional politics, which gets pretty dense, depending on the size of said Division.

Unrelated shot of the Grand Canyon! (photo: SaintLost)

I don't remember where we stopped for lunch, nor do I remember what it was, but I can tell you that all the food I ate on this trip was delicious.  From what I understand, river guides/runners end up as really great cooks from all the practice.  I do think that dinner was chicken fajitas; oh so tasty.  Stopping for the night on a really high sandbar is when I discovered that I had a bad sunburn developing on my feet.  It wasn't until days later that I realized how bad it was, but that's something I'll mention off and on during this series.

In any case, sleep was easier than I thought it would be and I only needed the footprint from my tent to sleep through the night.  You do get a good picture of the consequences of having a solo office job, since I was friends with only one person on this trip and it was difficult to socialize with everyone else, given how socially awkward I am.

A random side canyon (photo: SaintLost)

I will end this first part by saying that while the commercial trips looked low key, the employee river trip was more wonderful than I could possibly have imagined. More stories and pictures to come in Part 2!

Monday, March 24, 2014

Bleeding green and grey - Building a life with the National Park Service

If you work for the National Park Service for long enough you'll eventually hear a comment that someone "bleeds green and grey". The term is used either as a compliment for someone that devotes their life to the Park Service, or occasionally as a playful insult when a person's life is so integrated with the Park Service that they couldn't go back to the real world if they wanted to.

The saying comes from a book written by Gregory Moss, a career park ranger who published a collection of stories about his life in the service. (Amazon link for anyone who is interested) National Park Ranger, a.k.a. "Bleeding Green & Grey": High Adventure Tales, Humorous Stories, & Deadly Consequences! What Gregory hit on with his title is that the Park Service often attracts a certain kind of person: A person who takes the job because they love the places, the people, and the experiences that living and working in America's best idea provides. People who end up staying with the Park Service for a career are there because they deeply care about being a part of the mission to protect and preserve. So willing in fact, that many give up enormous opportunities outside of the service to stay in the places they love. We give up higher paying jobs, relationships, and whatever else is required in order to stay with the Park Service, and to become a member of the Park Service family.

This is not to say that to join the Park Service you must be willing to give up the "real world" for the rest of your life. There are thousands of jobs in the service that you can work for a single season and move on. You'll get the amazing experience, and the eye catching job on the resume, but you don't have to stay forever if you don't want to.

But, many of us do make the choice to stay in the family, to accept a career of lower pay, for harder work, in more difficult and remote locations. We do it because we love it, because we think it's the best thing we could do with our lives, and because sooner or later you realize that you bleed green and grey, even if you never thought you would.


(Waking up to sights like this every day might help)

Once you realize that you want to spend your life working for the Park Service your perspective shifts. You stop thinking about how much you'll make in your next job, and start thinking about what parks you want to embed yourself in. You stop thinking about moving to get a promotion, and start focusing on the parks that will allow you to pursue your passions. You lose focus on the short term difficulties from day to day and start daydreaming about leaving your legacy.

Part of the amazing experience of working for the Park Service is that the organization has been around for less than 100 years. In fact our centennial isn't even until 2016! While the Park Service is a place of strong tradition and a commitment to stewardship of our national treasures, it is also an organization still in the formation phase. Every year we gain new sites, new people, and new mission goals. And with only 98 years in operation, there simply hasn't been time to do everything that needs to be done. Therein comes the idea of a person's Park Service legacy. For different people it means different things. To some it's a personal mark they can leave behind when they move on. For others it's a new way NPS can serve the visitors who come to see our landscapes and places. It all depends on your passion and what you think the Park Service needs to become a better place.

One example that comes to mind is the work of a dedicated group of interpretive employees. Together with hard work, sweat, tears, and enormous amounts of effort they built the first distance learning program in the Park Service. In the past students would have to come to a National Park location to meet a ranger, to ask questions about the park, and to start to appreciate the work that we do to protect it. With the distance learning setup Park Rangers from Grand Canyon now give programs for kids all over the country, giving students who don't have access to our National Parks the opportunity to see a condor flying overhead, or look at fossils embedded in the red sandstone. Technology like this introduces people to a world they might never have been able to experience before.


Image source: http://arizonahighways.wordpress.com/2013/02/13/grand-canyon-goes-high-tech-to-reach-students-nationwide/

On its own Grand Canyon's distance learning program would have been a "legacy" item. A change made by a group of dedicated people that will continue to serve the Park Service long after they retire. But the program at Grand Canyon was only the beginning! As other parks saw the new technology, and the new opportunities that it can provide to visitors the idea spread. The single distance learning studio has turned into programs at parks across the country, each unique to the park that hosts it, but based on the ideas pioneered by a few dedicated individuals in a single branch, in a single division, at a single park.

The National Park Service now hosts an entire suite of distance learning programs. Information is available at http://www.nps.gov/teachers/distancelearning.htm if anyone who comes across this is interested. How's that for a legacy? Serving thousands or tens of thousands of students per year from all over the U.S. and all over the world.

A legacy doesn't have to be public facing either. For some, the scientific pursuits outweigh the desire to interact with visitors. For a person motivated by the invisible bits of the park service, a legacy might be out of the public eye, but still critical to the mission, such as preservation of an ecosystem, plant, animal, or even mineral that otherwise might be lost without protection.

Leaving a legacy may not be always be glamorous, but each legacy still provides a permanent place in the halls of nearly a century of NPS staff who have given their careers, and occasionally their lives, to protecting the places that America treasures.

~CBD